Lake Yamzho Yumco

Near the southern bank of the Yarlong Tsangpo River in the vicinity of Quxu towers the 4,790-meter Gangbala Mountain. At its southern foot is a beautiful alpine lake with mirror-smooth water, which reflects white clouds, snowy peaks and green mountains. This is Lake Yamzhog Yum, which adjoins Lake Pomo and Lake Chigu. The name Yamzhog Yum means "jade pasture," and the lakeside area, with its rich water supply and lush grass, serve as an excellent grazing land. The name also shows the importance the Tibetan people attach to livestock breeding. The term "jade" is by no means an overstatement for, unlike the West Lake in Hangzhou, Lake Yamzhog Yum charms by its wild beauty and alpine splendor. Covering an area of 730 square kilometers, the lake is studded with isles and edged with zigzagging harbors.

Tibet has one of the greatest concentrations of lakes in China. There are over 1,500 in all, and their total area adds up to approximately 25,000 square- kilometer Lake Nam, although only one quarter the size of the world-famous Lake Titicaca on the border of Bolivia and Peru, lies 4,718 meters above sea level, 908 meters higher than Lake Titicaca. It is the world's highest inland saltwater lake. Its partner, to the northwest, Lake Siling ranks after it with an area of 1,860 square kilometers. Lake Banggong, in western Tibet, is 155 kilometers long and 15 kilometers wide at its broadest point and like a narrow ribbon reaches into Kashmir. What is remarkable about Lake Banggong is that it is filled with fresh water in its eastern half and with saltwater in its western half. Kangrinboqe, the main peak of the Gangdise Range, is held sacred by the Tibetan people. And Lake Mapam Yum, at its southern foot, is revered as a holy lake and is worshipped by Tibetans as a purifier of body and mind and by Hindus from India, who make the long trek across the border to pay homage. The 76-square-kilometer Margai Caka is so shallow not even rubber boats can negotiate it, and the lake's bottom and shores are caked with salt. Lake Angdar is a sanctuary for brown-headed gulls and ruddy sheldrakes. Lake Yiyong, which is fringed with forests, is navigable by flat-bottomed boats laden with as many as eight horses.

In heaven, paradise; on earth, Lake Yamzhog Yum. In heaven, twinkle stars; by the lake, graze sheep and cattle, so sing the Tibetan people.

Lake Yamzhog Yum teems with a scaleless fish that weighs about three kilograms and is known as the naked carp. Its meat is tender and delicious. But because the fish is held sacred by Tibetans, who never eat it, its numbers have been greatly increasing. Today, it is a much sought after delicacy in the Lhasa and Xigaze markets. Fishermen sometimes can bring in more than 500 kilograms in one cast of the net.

Perched on top of a moutain southwest of Lake Yamzhog Yum is the Samding Temple, which attracts tourists with its scenic beauty.It is also known, however, because it houses the only female Living Buddha. Dorje Pam, of the Shangpa-ka-gyu-pa branch of the Ka-gyu-pa Sect( the White Sect). The system of reincarnate Living Buddhawas instituted 300 years ago, and Dorje Pam is the 12th reincarnation of the Living Buddha.